How Do I Know If I Need Caulking?
Check around windows and doors. You should replace the caulk
around these areas if it is split or cracking. Also check the interior
side of doors, windows, baseboards, spigots, vent ducts, skylights,
attic fans, fireplaces, or other wall penetrations. If you feel a draft
coming out of any of these areas, you should caulk it.
What Type of Caulk Should I Use?
A number of factors must be considered when choosing caulking.
They include durability, flexibility, whether the caulk can be painted,
and, of course, price. The most expensive caulk is not always the best
product for every job, so you should carefully consider which product is
appropriate for your situation. Read product labels and manufacturers'
literature and ask your salesperson for his or her recommendation.
Here is a list of common caulks and their characteristics. Different
types of caulking are designed for different applications and quality
can vary among different brands of the same type because of different
formulations used. Always read and follow the manufacturer's
directions.
1. Oil Base Painter's Caulk (1-2 year life) - Not very elastic. Dries out easily. Paintable after curing. Lowest cost.
2. Latex (3-10 year life) - Use mostly indoors. Goes on
easily. Low elasticity. Sticks to porous surfaces only. Easy water
cleanup. Low in cost. Paintable.
3. Butyl Rubber (3-10 year life) - High elasticity.
Sticks to most surfaces. High moisture resistance. Flexible when
cured. Most difficult to work with as it is very sticky.
4. Acrylic Latex (10 year life) - Good elasticity. Sticks to most surfaces. Reasonable moisture resistance. Paintable. Good for around doors and windows. May not be used below freezing.
5. Silicone-Latex Blend (20+ year life) - Good elasticity. Excellent weathering ability. Medium shrinkage. Adheres to most surfaces. Some cannot be painted. May not be used below freezing.
6. Silicone (20-50 year life) - Excellent elasticity. Sticks very well. Excellent moisture resistance. Needs solvent to clean. Strong odor possible while curing. Low shrinkage. Generally, not paintable, but available in many colors. May not be used below freezing. May be applied to wood, asphalt or metal, but not vinyl or masonry.
7. Urethane (20-50 year life) - Excellent elasticity and adhesion. Excellent moisture resistance. Easy cleanup. Strong odor possible while curing. Low shrinkage.
4. Acrylic Latex (10 year life) - Good elasticity. Sticks to most surfaces. Reasonable moisture resistance. Paintable. Good for around doors and windows. May not be used below freezing.
5. Silicone-Latex Blend (20+ year life) - Good elasticity. Excellent weathering ability. Medium shrinkage. Adheres to most surfaces. Some cannot be painted. May not be used below freezing.
6. Silicone (20-50 year life) - Excellent elasticity. Sticks very well. Excellent moisture resistance. Needs solvent to clean. Strong odor possible while curing. Low shrinkage. Generally, not paintable, but available in many colors. May not be used below freezing. May be applied to wood, asphalt or metal, but not vinyl or masonry.
7. Urethane (20-50 year life) - Excellent elasticity and adhesion. Excellent moisture resistance. Easy cleanup. Strong odor possible while curing. Low shrinkage.
How Do I Apply Caulk To A Joint?
Surface Preparation: Carefully remove any old caulking material
with a razor blade or putty knife. If repairing concrete or masonry,
use a wire brush to remove any loose material . On smooth surfaces,
such as aluminum or glass, wipe the area with isopropyl alcohol or
sealant primer and immediately dry with a clean cloth to remove any
dirt, grease or residue.
Tape: Use masking tape to prevent caulk from adhering to unwanted surfaces. Be sure to remove before caulk dries on the tape. Place strips of masking tape around the area to be caulked. This helps to keep the bead neat. Once the caulk is applied and smoothed, remove the tape and the excess caulk comes off with it.
Insert Backer Rod: If joint is wide, insert backer rod or bond breaker tape into the joint. Remember to use a backer rod that is 25% larger than the joint.
Cut caulk spout: Cut tip at a 45 degree angle with a Newborn spout cutter (built in the caulk gun) or knife. Cut at the desired bead size to match joint size - Remember, a smaller bead can always be made larger, but you are stuck with the larger sized bead. Please start small and adjust as needed.
Place cartridge into gun.
To apply caulk, squeeze the trigger and push, or pull, the gun along the gap. Pushing the gun drives caulk down into the gap and gives you better adhesion. However, in some cases (particularly where the side materials are rough or uneven), a pulling motion may work better so that the cartridge will be less likely to get snagged along the joint.
To finish the joint, wet your finger with soapy water (if the caulk is formulated for soap and water cleanup) or dab of automotive hand cleaner (if the caulk is formulated for solvent cleanup). Run your finger along the joint, smoothing it and pressing the caulk into the joint. Wipe away excess with a rag.
Tape: Use masking tape to prevent caulk from adhering to unwanted surfaces. Be sure to remove before caulk dries on the tape. Place strips of masking tape around the area to be caulked. This helps to keep the bead neat. Once the caulk is applied and smoothed, remove the tape and the excess caulk comes off with it.
Insert Backer Rod: If joint is wide, insert backer rod or bond breaker tape into the joint. Remember to use a backer rod that is 25% larger than the joint.
Cut caulk spout: Cut tip at a 45 degree angle with a Newborn spout cutter (built in the caulk gun) or knife. Cut at the desired bead size to match joint size - Remember, a smaller bead can always be made larger, but you are stuck with the larger sized bead. Please start small and adjust as needed.
Place cartridge into gun.
To apply caulk, squeeze the trigger and push, or pull, the gun along the gap. Pushing the gun drives caulk down into the gap and gives you better adhesion. However, in some cases (particularly where the side materials are rough or uneven), a pulling motion may work better so that the cartridge will be less likely to get snagged along the joint.
To finish the joint, wet your finger with soapy water (if the caulk is formulated for soap and water cleanup) or dab of automotive hand cleaner (if the caulk is formulated for solvent cleanup). Run your finger along the joint, smoothing it and pressing the caulk into the joint. Wipe away excess with a rag.
